Gieves & Hawkes AW’12
by Adam the Editor
Gieves & Hawkes held an intimate presentation on menswear day at London Fashion Week in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House.
The Savile Row tailors has taken inspiration from the 60s for their AW’12 offer – the work of David Hicks more specifically. This can be seen in the colours and prints that feature on ties and pocket squares; adding a fun touch to the satorial look. The Beatles were also a massive influence for the new Design Director, Barry Tulip.
The collection features fully canvassed suits with widened lapels, lowered notch and a raised first button. These pay tribute to the most prominent celebrity tailor of the 60s – Tommy Nutter. The suits are worn with one of the major elements of the collection: printed ties. Bold and colourful, the ties are a visual representation of the energy that is so apparent in the UK in the late 60s and in which David Hicks artistic influence is most evident.
The pea coat also takes a prominent place in this collection. It has been updated for AW’12 using engraved horn buttons with a delicate signature rope motif and the house Art Deco G and H logo. For colder weather the tailors has created something altogether more robust in the form of a cashmere/wool hooded coat, lined with technical nylon and natural shearling.
Developments in menswear are a lot slower than womenswear; especially in relation to tailoring. But, Gieves & Hawkes has a strong heritage in this field. I don’t normally pay much attention to formalwear but after attending this presentation I feel like my knowledge has grown exponentially. I also quite yearn after a well-crafted suit that I can keep for years and years. I just need to save my pennies so that one day I can indeed invest in one from this prestigious menswear brand.