Emilio de la Morena AW’11

by Adam the Editor

The Emilio de la Morena show took inspiration from the American photographer Francesca Woodman as well as a black and white photograph depicting women in Victorian-era costume.

The colour palette consisted of black, tomato red and dark purple with small flourishes of powder pink and ivory emerging later in the collection. The choice of colour was a visual representation of the mood surrounding the untimely suicide of Woodman aged 22 back in 1981.

Silhouettes were fitted and simple with knee-length and slightly below the knee being the preferred length. Panelling on dresses helped to reinforce a fitted appearance to the clothes. Silk and wool were the main fabric choices whilst complex fabric cutting techniques allowed for interesting drape detail.

The shoes were a collaboration between Morena and Charlotte Olympia and I have to say I want one of each pair! Absolutely love Charlotte Olympia shoes as much as Louboutin so it’s good to see them being featured on the catwalk at LFW.

I especially liked the fitted jackets paired with knee-length dresses. Kinda corporate but the colour scheme and cut added a fun, playful twist that demonstrated how the collection wasn’t just about utility.

Overall, I quite liked Morena for AW’11. The collection was very different to the one shown for SS but I think commercially the pieces work well and the styles are suitable for most occasions. With a front row that included Olivia Palermo and Charlotte Dellal, this designer is definitely doing something right.

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